The perfect day in Orkney’s capital

Typically if you are escaping to the Orkney islands you are a fan of the great outdoors (countryside, beaches, history…); however, that does not mean to say that the towns of the mainland do not have a lot to offer. Being Orkney’s largest town, one third of the archipelago’s population calls Kirkwall their home. Despite the business that this suggests, the island town feels more like a friendly country town than the bustling port of any town that you are familiar with. Orkney is not the Western Isles, so unless you visit on a ‘cruise-ship day’ you will find a quiet and friendly town.

Kirkwall is easily accessible from the Mainland, Holm and South Ronaldsay, somehow finding itself a comfortable driving distance from everywhere. Therefore, if you are not staying in the town, you can still experience this magical day out. If driving, there is a free carpark opposite Tesco and Lidl which enables you to walk up West Tankerness Lane into the town centre.

8:30am – Breakfast

Much like everywhere else across the island, Kirkwall does not awaken until around 10am. However, Archive Coffee on Laing Street serves an excellent breakfast menu from 8:30 to 11:00. While this cafe is not Orkney’s best kept secret and therefore can be busy during the lunch rush, breakfast is one of their quieter times. There are an array of excellent options including vegan variations of many of the meals (I personally recommend the vegan brioche French toast) and the coffee is very good.

10:30 – The Orkney Museum

Located on Broad Street in Tankerness House, The Orkney Museum tracks the islands’ history from its prolific Prehistoric beginnings up to modern times. This wonderfully higgledy piggledy museum is free to enter and full of all sorts of treasures.

12:00 – Lunch

Although you could always return to Archive (the queue is usually quite fast paced) or visit another cafe, picnicking in the garden of Tankerness House is a wonderful lunchtime treat. Located behind the museum, this is the closest Kirkwall has to a town park. Pick up your favourite picnicking treats and find a bench or flowerbed to sit on… or even sit on the grass (a picnic blanket is advisable even in the peak of summer).

13:00 – Wireless Museum or Clothes Shopping

Following lunch, head out towards the harbour for another museum or begin a tour of the wonderful clothing that Kirkwall’s tourist shops have to offer. The Wireless Museum is a collection of old radios (hence the name), which is the perfect place for a vintage fan or World War fan. There is an array of British and German radios from boat, airplanes and U-Boats on display and plenty of social history to draw you into the experience of the wars for the people of the island. This museum is run by volunteers from the islands who are fascinating to talk to about their own memories connected to the items on display.

Alternatively, you could visit Aurora, Judith Glue, The Longship and the other tourist shops and browse the array of jumpers and jewellery for sale.

Afternoon tea – Judith Glue

Following your visit to either the museum or the shops, make your way down Broad Street to The Real Food Cafe located in the back of Judith Glue for a piece of date slice (or cake of your choice) and a hot drink. This is a wonderful way to take in the experiences of your day thus far and breathe before the final visit of the day.

St Magnus’

Across the road from Judith Glue is the magnificent St Magnus’ Cathedral, which will have been overseeing your entire day. This glorious building was built by the masons who built Lindisfarne Priory and will appeal to an array of different tastes. Not only is it an architectural feat, the rich history spans from the Viking origins to the bombing of The Royal Oak during the Second World War. Take a magical walk around the cathedral and breathe in its peace and beauty.

Sunsets and Coffee

No day is complete without an evening coffee. Judith Glue is open later than many other places and is the perfect place to pick up a takeaway coffee. The steps of St Magnus’ are a suntrap in the late afternoon and are the best place to sit and think or talk or just people watch, coffee in hand. It can be a little windy, so keep an eye out for a hooded crow or seagull skidding sideways as they battle the Orkney weather in search of anything the tourists may have left them.

Typically this would be the point where I would head home; however, feel free to grab yourself some fish and chips and sit on the harbour to prolong the day a little longer!