A Short Guide to Packing for Orkney

Many choose to adventure south for the summer, exploring warmer climes and enjoying sand and sun. However, for some the heat of these months holds little appeal and for those who find themselves dreaming of the autumn places like Orkney are a haven. Where does one find this wonderful place? Well, in simple terms, one travels north through Britain until reaching John O’Groats… and then keeps going. You can catch a ferry from Thurso (1 hour 30 minutes journey) or John O’Groats (40 minutes) that will take you on… over the Pentland Firth and to the land of Vikings and Prehistory and World War scars. It is a place that is perpetually in a state of summerween and will protect you from the heatwaves. Just be ready for storms, relentless wind and a unique rain that seems to come from all directions at once!

To prepare you for your journey to a real life Berk from How to Train your Dragon I have compiled this short list of absolute musts for your suitcase!

1. Your best raincoat

Orkney rain is a special creation that seems able to penetrate almost any material and due to the presence of sea on all sides, will bombard you from every direction at once. As such, leave you Barbour at home and choose slightly more hardy wet weather gear! My recommendation is good quality hiking kit or a skiing jacket. If you have plans to visit the archipelago as a tourist rather than a walker, this may seem a little extreme, but believe me it’s an absolute must! These islands will test your most reliable coat and would make a perfect location for trailing new winter lines. So, the bottom line is even if you forget everything else, remember a good coat – you’ll realise once you are on the ferry how vital it is.

2. A good camera

These islands are famed for more things, the primary of which are the archaeology and the birdlife. Due to a scheme to cull the local stoat population, there is an abundance of ground nesting birds to catch a glimpse of. From puffins and curlews to arctic terns and snipe, there are plenty of avian species around every corner. But be warned! Even in places that are inhabited, there are often territorial family groups who would rather scratch you than let you near their nests. Equally, there are ravens and hares to be spotted upon the walls and fields. Everywhere you turn there is a marvel of wildlife that encourages you to accept how the countryside should really look. Plus, they are simply beautiful! Alongside the wildlife are countless historical sites. Here where the skies are wide and the light crisper than an artist’s daylight bulb, every photograph looks incredible. And keep your camera with you on the ferry, as you will either pass the famed Old Man O’ Hoy or abandoned islands. When you reach land, the photo worthy landscapes continue with the plains of Brodgar and the many prehistoric and World War sites on offer.

3. A pile of warm jumpers

I cannot stress enough how cold Orkney can be! You are surrounded by sea, which regularly dances in a frenzy with the wild winds blowing in from the ocean. While this comes with the opportunity to see orcas, it also means that while it is 35+ degrees in London the Orkneys are just reaching 14 degrees. Multiple jumpers are required under that raincoat. This may not be the fashion experience worthy of putting on your Instagram; however, it is worth piling on the layers just to stay warm. While there are plenty of places along Broad Street to buy yourself a lovely fairisle, it is best to come at least partly equipped for the experience. If you are completely freezing once you have arrived, check out Judith Glue, Longship and Aurora for an array of options.

4. Midgie spray

Unlike the lochs of mainland Scotland, Orkney does not suffer with midgies due to the constant sea breeze. The wee beasties with jaws should not be a concern when packing. However, there is plenty of long grass, which does come with the threat of horseflies and ticks. This is a genuine problem on the islands just as in many places in the UK and as such it is important to be aware. While the usual precautions for ticks should suffice, a good quality bugs spray will go miles in helping you to feel more comfortable around the horseflies. It may also be worth carrying some antihistamine if you are susceptible, but there is a Boots in Kirkwall (the main town of the mainland) which is well equipt.

5. A Map

While the Orkney mainland is small and you will begin to find your way around pretty quickly, a map is invaluable to begin with. An OS Explorer Map will help you to find all of the hidden places on the island and those islands further afield. This will stop you from confusing Deerness and Dounby and help when there are inevitable road closures on the one good road that runs from one side of the island to the other. Don’t be fooled by the scale of the map though! Nothing is more than an hour’s driving distance even if it looks much further.